*H*E*L*P*
My Smart ED3 have been left undriven for 3 weeks. During that period I watched cell voltage dropping uneven, and now when trying to recharge it won't start to charge !?!
I tried to run 'bms reset', but the Alerts returns emidiately when connecting charge cable again:
Voltage: SD=67mV !1:-120mV !2:-101mV !3:-50mV !4:-293mV !29:-52mV !30:-438mV !31:-130mV !63:-206mV !64:-88mV Temperature: SD=0.4C OK
OVMS# bms status Voltage: Average: 3.503V [3.064V - 3.544V] Deviation: SD 67.10mV [max 67.10mV], 17 warnings, 9 alerts Temperature: Average: 9.9C [ 9.3C - 10.7C] Deviation: SD 0.39C [max 0.40C], 0 warnings, 0 alerts Cells: +--------+--------+ 1 | 3.382V | 9.8C | +--------+--------+ 2 | 3.401V | 10.1C | +--------+--------+ 3 | 3.452V | 10.7C | +--------+--------+ 4 | 3.209V | 9.3C | +--------+--------+ 5 | 3.515V | 9.5C | +--------+--------+ 6 | 3.504V | 9.7C | +--------+--------+ 7 | 3.505V | 9.8C | +--------+--------+ 8 | 3.512V | 10.0C | +--------+--------+ 9 | 3.502V | 10.2C | +--------+--------+ 10 | 3.501V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 11 | 3.510V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 12 | 3.514V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 13 | 3.528V | 2.0C | +--------+--------+ 14 | 3.514V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 15 | 3.516V | 9.8C | +--------+--------+ 16 | 3.514V | 10.1C | +--------+--------+ 17 | 3.518V | 10.7C | +--------+--------+ 18 | 3.513V | 9.3C | +--------+--------+ 19 | 3.520V | 9.5C | +--------+--------+ 20 | 3.507V | 9.7C | +--------+--------+ 21 | 3.490V | 9.8C | +--------+--------+ 22 | 3.512V | 10.0C | +--------+--------+ 23 | 3.527V | 10.2C | +--------+--------+ 24 | 3.502V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 25 | 3.519V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 26 | 3.509V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 27 | 3.507V | 2.0C | +--------+--------+ 28 | 3.498V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 29 | 3.450V | 9.8C | +--------+--------+ 30 | 3.064V | 10.1C | +--------+--------+ 31 | 3.372V | 10.7C | +--------+--------+ 32 | 3.493V | 9.3C | +--------+--------+ 33 | 3.502V | 9.5C | +--------+--------+ 34 | 3.526V | 9.7C | +--------+--------+ 35 | 3.527V | 9.8C | +--------+--------+ 36 | 3.533V | 10.0C | +--------+--------+ 37 | 3.541V | 10.2C | +--------+--------+ 38 | 3.527V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 39 | 3.530V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 40 | 3.517V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 41 | 3.519V | 2.0C | +--------+--------+ 42 | 3.525V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 43 | 3.536V | -0.1C | +--------+--------+ 44 | 3.535V | 0.2C | +--------+--------+ 45 | 3.523V | 0.8C | +--------+--------+ 46 | 3.532V | -0.6C | +--------+--------+ 47 | 3.539V | -0.4C | +--------+--------+ 48 | 3.526V | -0.2C | +--------+--------+ 49 | 3.534V | -0.1C | +--------+--------+ 50 | 3.529V | 0.1C | +--------+--------+ 51 | 3.543V | 0.3C | +--------+--------+ 52 | 3.544V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 53 | 3.543V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 54 | 3.515V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 55 | 3.519V | 2.0C | +--------+--------+ 56 | 3.516V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 57 | 3.517V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 58 | 3.517V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 59 | 3.506V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 60 | 3.517V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 61 | 3.505V | 68169720922112.0C | +--------+--------+ 62 | 3.496V | -169296593500958770697728504251457470464.0C | +--------+--------+ 63 | 3.296V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 64 | 3.414V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 65 | 3.477V | 2.0C | +--------+--------+ 66 | 3.532V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 67 | 3.525V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 68 | 3.539V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 69 | 3.522V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 70 | 3.519V | 71859503208318044733440.0C | +--------+--------+ 71 | 3.532V | 264479218549703835648.0C | +--------+--------+ 72 | 3.538V | 71561207286999159930880.0C | +--------+--------+ 73 | 3.537V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 74 | 3.539V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 75 | 3.534V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 76 | 3.532V | 71430716706035219338123284578304.0C | +--------+--------+ 77 | 3.518V | 18178671951207061558369630289920.0C | +--------+--------+ 78 | 3.525V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 79 | 3.533V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 80 | 3.527V | 2.4C | +--------+--------+ 81 | 3.542V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 82 | 3.529V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 83 | 3.526V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 84 | 3.517V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 85 | 3.533V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 86 | 3.529V | -0.0C | +--------+--------+ 87 | 3.526V | 2.0C | +--------+--------+ 88 | 3.528V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 89 | 3.530V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 90 | 3.501V | 1.0C | +--------+--------+ 91 | 3.508V | 0.0C | +--------+--------+ 92 | 3.511V | 71859503208318044733440.0C | +--------+--------+ 93 | 3.521V | 71426891664741958651414514237440.0C | +--------+--------+
IS MY HV-BATTERY BROKEN ?!?!?
Roald,
I feel your pain. I went through the same a year and a half ago. HV battery failed and DC/DC converter to charge the 12v service battery also failed.
Please do check your 12v battery. Allowing it to run down is a known HV battery killer. In my case it ran down as it was no longer being charged correctly by the car and I was distracted by other, more important things in my life at the time.
12V is not drained totaly. My OVMS runs on it an reports 11.5V now.
gtwibell, Did you get it fixed, or did you need to replace the complete HV-battery?
I was covered by the Battery Assurance Program at the time. Dealer fitted new 12v battery, HV battery and DC/DC converter under warranty. I think I was very lucky but I did have to wait 8 months for the HV battery from Germany. Battery Assurance has now run out. It is my problem now if it fails again. Be sure I have a 12v battery monitor on the dashboard now!
That does not sound good.
Your 12V battery may be bad and the Smart always tried to recharge it. This can lead to the HV battery being deeply discharged and now broken. If you do not have access to a star diagnosis. Can you read out at most the fault memory with an Autel AP200. Unfortunately, I can't help you much. You can also use the "xse bmsdiag" command to call up a battery diagnosis that is more meaningful.
Dimitrie, As you can see only cell 30 is at 3v rest is at approx 3,4v is that deep discharge?
The lower final charge voltage is at 3,2V, so yes, cell 4 & 30 is deep discharged, cell 63 is close to it. The rest looks fine. I'm guessing you now have got the well known P18051C error.
If you won't get a new battery by the dealer, you have to open the battery, charge cell 4, 30 and 63 to >3200mV and let somebody reset the BMS for you. The whole process would take about 4-8 weeks.
MineCooky, oh shit. That was not good new. Is there realy no other way around this ?
Is it possible to read out error code with OVMS, or do I need a diagnostic tool to check for P18051C ?
You need a diagnosis tool to check for P18051C
There is I believe a company in Ukraine that can diagnose and fix battery management problems. But I do not know where you are located. https://gosmart.com.ua/
Thanks for the tip, but I'm in Norway so Ukraine is far away.
I would recomment to bring the smart to the next smart/mercedes dealer. Simply to confirm if we are right and to get feedback if maybe the pay for the new battery, it's worth a try.
They guy in Ukraine only needs to reset the BMW, that's small enough that you can send it via DHL. Opening and recharging the cells isn't too hard, somebody near you should be able to do that.
Yes, first thing after holidays is tho bring it to the local Smart-dealer. But i'm afraid their conclution is damaged hv battery and no warranty. And a new one cost way over the cars value..
So most likely ending up trying to fix this by myself. And someone on other forum-posts has sugested that by towing the car it is possible to regenerate power so the cells are charged over minimum again without disassembling it. But stil BMS need to be reset i supose?
I would suggest spending some time reading the 451ED threads on the smartcarofamerica.com group forum. You will need to sign up. There were many 451EDs sold in the US and there is much discussion around failed HV batteries. https://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/smart-fortwo-electric-drive.170/
Towing the smart won't work as the smart is not "turning on" the battery any more. Nether for charging, nor for driving.
Did I get that right?
You are in holidays. So how did you notice it won't charge anymore?
Personally, I would bring it right now to the dealer to confirm the error and check if they are going to repair it for free. Somethimes they are quiet generous with US-imports. Also, if it's confirmed, that they aren't going to fix it for free, you should start recharging the cells now. They won't get any better, if you wait for them to discharge even more...
By holiday I ment easter weekend and everything is closed. In Norway It starts now and last to next wednesday. So there vill be another week before I can bring it to them. I have put a external charger on 12V battery, just ensure that the 12V battery isn't draining the hv battery even more. The lowest cell reads now 2.933V...
Why wouldn't it work for recharging the battery? What do you think regen does when you are coasting and or put on the brakes? I beleive I did read somewhere that towing over a certain speed and time was not recommended as it would and could over heat the battery. I think I may have read 30mph max towing speed? Anyhow if you have a good 12 volt battery and towing the car for a short distance, you should see some kind of results. I know when I am going down a long steep hill, I can see about a needle width of increase of available charge. You should hopefully see simular results. Keep us posted.
Not sure but i think when BMS decide that HV battery is malfunctioning, it will not engage the HV contactors(relays), and there is no connection where current can flow to/from the battery.
But perhaps turning ignittion on/off repeatedly during towing might work, since the connectors seems to be engaged for a second or two when ignition is turned on?
I have been reading through logs from ovms since I last parked 2020-03-11 19:04:36 and did some interesting findings:
To keep the car awake an able to monitor it I have been using the ignition on/off function often, also to ensure that 12V battery was OK, since there are a lot of warnings about dead 12V batteries.
But since I have increased the ignition timer to 10 mins, the total time with ignition on is summed up to be for hours I realised now :-(
That was my first stupidity, but it didn't stop there because I received the first Alert:
2020-04-02 20:03: 5844899 A Voltage: SD=9mV !30:-63mVTemperature: SD=0.2C OK
Without knowledge of the seriousity of this, I continued to turn ignition on/off, until I was not able to bring up the hv meter in ovms dashboard.
I was just focusing on that high voltage meter, and since it was in middle of yellow, far from red, I thaught there would be no harm yet, until:
2020-04-07 16:06:0559501A Voltage: SD=65mV !1:-119mV !2:-99mV !3:-50mV !4:-288mV !29:-52mV !30:-426mV !31:-129mV !63:-203mV !64:-87mVTemperature: SD=0.8C OK
Then the needle did not stay, only pike up to yellow and down and ignition was automatically immediately turned off. I understood that charging now was needed.
But it was too late. Now I'm unable to charge, and the dash brings up message about engine disabled when ignition turned on.
SO TO OTHER READERS, THIS IS A WARNING: DONT LEAVE IGNITION ON WHEN HV BATTERY IS LOW/NEARLY AT ZERO. YOU COULD END UP BRICKING YOUR HV BATTERY!!
EVEN WITH MIDLE HIGH VOLTAGE IN THE YELLOW AND RealSOC ABOVE 5%, GET IT CHARGED!!
(I still do have a little hope that this is a security function that is turned on to prevent permanent battery damage caused by discharging, and the Smart-dealer might be able to bring it allive again..)
I do not know if this is useful information or not. When my HV battery failed the car was at the main dealers for a service and investigation for a phantom six amp discharge of the 12v battery. When I left the car at the dealer it had around 35% SOC remaining. The next day they ran diagnostics and phoned me to report HV and 12v battery failures, and a module which had also failed - I'm guessing the DC/DC converter which must have been causing the phantom discharge of the 12v battery. I reckon they felt obliged to replace the batteries as the car was in their care when it went wrong.
I got the car scanned with Bosh ESI Tronic diagnose. There were multiple errorcodes on warious components, (Engine, charger, HV battery, steering assistance++) many of them about problem with CAN-bus (?). I was able to erase all but two on the HV-battery: U01A2FA and P0DE6FB. First one is about CAN-bus and the other low cell voltage. They return immediately when trying to start charging. I'm preparing dismantling HV battery now for cell by cell recharge.
This thread will help you I am sure: https://www.smartcarofamerica.com/threads/ev-battery-replacement.153826/page-23
I would tell you you have not to run in danger.
First of all you not have the Deep unload case which needs the the P18051C issue, but you need aware what you are doing.
Home you did not make mor damage then initial.
First of all you need to have a running 12V Supply all the time when you try to bring the batterie up.
You need fast, otherwise the Cellmanagment will kill your Batterie stacks in reality and you really run in the BMS issue.
In my understanding if you not reach the status that a lot of cells get unloaded and dem CMS is switched of the BMS would set failure but not set P18051C which cause the big issue.
A smart repare shop should have the possibility to aktivate a emergency charge procedure, which allow to recarge the battery without take it out or open it.
So think twice what you are dowing. The CAN Bus failure come from the connect of the OVMS to the system. they are resetable.
Only the PODE6FB is an issue and this could overdriven in the diagnostic mode. By this your Contactor of the Battery could be closed and the Charger should work in lowest power mode.
IF you really need to open it pay attention where you connect to the cells. there is a currentsensor close to the BMS linked by a LIN bus. if the BMS is not powered a current flowing over this sensor cause damage to the device.
JMK2020 - thanks for good advices :-) I'm a little confused about the 12V. Others is advicing me to disconnect 12V completely, to prevent damage to HV-battery (?!). I first put on a 12V maintenance charger, but now i totaly dissconnected it. Should I connect it again? How quick will the Cellmanagment kill the Batterie stacks if no 12V applied?
And to the U01A2FA CAN-bus issue. My OVMS is now disconnected but stil unable to erase it with Bosch ESI-tronic.But maybee a MB/Smart-dealer will do?
I agree with you; It make sense there is a inbuildt security-feature that shuts off HV-battery when deep discharge and one/some cells go dangerous low to prevent even more damage. And to get out of this 'lockdown' only a MB/Smart-dealer can get it fixed.
Disconnecting the 12v battery will most certainly kill the HV battery for good. This is believed to be a safety precaution for when cars finish up in a junkyard. The first thing junkyard operators do when they get a car is remove the 12v battery.
Good statement. I read this also, but i could not believe because if the car is parked for several time the KL15 is switched off, which means the BMS controller should be in off either.
If there is no communication to the cell management the work for them alone. But the not start the balancing never the less the drain some minor current from the cells.
this happen independed to the supply of the BMS part of the battery.
In my view the wear out of the 12V battery and the soc 0% HV battery cause the additional access and discharge of the cells.
OK if you run low with the 12V, it seems to me the BMS trigger during wearout time by time the cellmanagement with uncharge the HV cells. If the cells run as low they not switch offe cellmanagement will kill the battery even further. So worst seems to be an half charged or damaged battery.
For sure if there is no 12V the bms would not work and could not trigger the cellmanagement. Never the less the cellmanagement will empty the cells.
So should not wait rescue your battery before you get the P18051C, because then you need to replace it and send your BMS to repairshop if you have no access to somebody which could flash the firmware new to reset the failure memory in parallel. The P18051C could not be reset with normal failure reset procedure.
To be honest i do not know what the cellmanagement would do in the meantime the 12V battery is totally of. in my view the wearout cause the discharge of the HV cells till the cells go too deep.
If you plan not to by a replacement in case of emergency and what open the battery, then also be fast to charge the single cells to minimum and afterward install it fast in the car again to reset the BMS after powerup and charge to nominal value.
Some approach tried to load the whole stacks. If you do this and pay attention to the current sensor you run in the problem, that the cms do not make a balancing and the good cells get to full. there is also a failure cells to high. then you need to uncharge them without drive the low to deep. Challanging
Try to speak to a dealer if he can rescue your battery fast without let it run deeper. if he only wand exchange the battery take it fast home open the batterie und load the empty chells.
If you get a P18051C then every thing get very expensive.
So, instead of tearing apart HV battery tomorow an start charging cell by cell, it wont get unreversible in 4 days until tursday when the MB/Dealer first opens again? My 12 V battery has never, I repeat, NEVER been flat. Thats not the root cause of my problem like many others. So for now, should I connect it again an hook up a 12V charger until or is it best to continue have it completely dissconnected for 4 days?
OK your problem has another root case as usual of the long time without charging but now the question is how safe your HV battery.
First of all when switched on your ignition, and load the whole system to the 12V bus, in the same moment when the ignition was on, the BMS controller activate the DC/DC Charger which supply at least 200W even in standby to the 12V battery. If some more loads are active, there will a higher power flow from HV Battery via DC/DC converter to the 12V bus.
I am not sure but normaly the drive funkction will slow down and on the empty point you could have a last start ignition to rescue the car from danger situations on road for a few 100m, and than you can't drive anymore. But never the less the main contactor would be switched on and discharge the 200w for the DC/DC converter as the ignition is on.
Ths cause the discharge of the HV battery below normal minimal charge value.
If you go on you come to the point the BMS will stop by some cells will be below the lower threshold. This cause your situation.
At moment you could not pass the HV main contactor in both direction.
The cellmanagement will discharge your cells ongoing.
So for me the solution must be pay attention your 12V battery is connected and charged external and don't switch on ignition because this will cause a additional load on the battery.
Did you check the posibility to be already connected to wallbox and then reset plugged the failure codes in the BMS? AS i know if there is a current flowing the contactor is only opend in emergency case, so maybe this will short close the contacts and allow to switch on the charger.
Also i am the opinion that it is possible to switch the contactor in diagnostic mode with xentry if a P18051C is not yet active.
So what are the options. I do not believe that the cells will get empty without load within 4 days that you reach 2,5V of the lowest cell. Even then it is not real a problem to slowly charge the cell to minimum to start the charger. The big problems are if you have several cells close to 0V and the stack switch of the cellmonitoring this seems to me one reason for a P18051C.
I would wait and prepare everything in case they could not help. Only risk would be the possible P18051C. This will cause the action with the difficult reset procedure.
Connect a full battery and hold it charged that the KL30 is always ok. My personal opinion without any garanty.
I found this: https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/low_voltage_cut_off
..'Do not boost lithium-based batteries back to life that have dwelled below 1.5V/cell for a week or longer.'..
So to me it sounds like there is good chanse for getting it back to life as my lowes cell is 2,7V now.
Hey,
the guys in Aschaffenburg (batteryuniverse) talk about cells in general. When you check the details von the ED3 battery there are some nice descriptions in the web which show even a rescue Form close to 0V. But this could be an issue von the performance of the cell. Also the P18051C failure code is a major issue. So be fast before it get deeper.
It is all a question of additional effort which will be needed in other case.
So the battery git from beyond 3V to 2.7V without 12Volt connected. Maybe you could check the status also in a few hours with 12V connected and can report. This will bring the resultiert what is Bettler for HV in this case.
Hi all
Got transport to a workshop with the right equipment today. The battery will be removed tomorow. It is now resting with 12V disconnected. Temperature in workshop is 18-20c. Here in Norway the outside temp is 3-4c. How is this temperature rise affecting cell voltage?
JMK2020, I found you in a German forum. My username there is kaNor. Trying to send you a PM there.
Results will be played back.
But the 1.5v is not the big Problem. If one of your stacks getting too low, Moore failure occur which are not as easy to reset.
Before you run into P18051C which seems very difficult for the most.
HV Battery disassembled today. Disconnected current sensor lead. 6 cells below 3,2v charged to 3,3v. The lowest was 2,438v messaured with OVMS just before starting dismounting. Still no errorcode P18051C. So there is hope ;-) Will give new update after assembling and test tomorrow.
Real great news.
Hope the current sensors survive but if you charge the single cells there should no reason for a damage. Only if you charge with current over the sensor, i am the opinion to pull the connector would not help not rescue it. But there are too less information about the damage von the device and rootcause available.
We will see. Cross the fingers for you.
You would be the first lucky guy which catch the rootcause before you got in bigger trouble.
Hope you have documented the tasks. This would help a lot after you facing similar situatuons.
I discuss with Dimitrie an approach for a integration of OVMS without OBD.
Wie will see if there is soon an branch in this direction. At moment my OVMS seems to have an issue. Rebooting failure, no start of the GPS and GSM. Crazy but as challenging as your tasks.
My smart is charging again!! It has raiset from death ;-D Thanks to all giving me advices. Spesial thanks to GoSmart Service in Ukrainia who has answered all my questions on WhatsApp during the hole weekend. They know what they are talking about ;-)
Hi Roald,
after install of the battery again, you need to delete the P0DE6FB and any thing was ok?
Or did you need to do additional actions? P18051C was never appearing, great.
Could you share some pictures and more information of your steps you have done?
You should start some balancing cycles to bring your system in good shape again. It seems to me the few cells which run in deep discharge should be become closer to the whole stack again.
Seems my messages to you are not pass the allowence in the GE Forum. you should accept ingoing PNs :-)
Roald,
Many congratulations on reviving your Smart ED battery. It gives us some hope that there is a fix and we don't have to junk our cars if the battery fails.
I am so pleased for you to hear this news.
Hi again
Does anybody know for sure how cells balancing is performed? Stay connected to the mains at 100% SOC, or drive below 20% and do a full charge to 100% for a cupple of times?
What is the upper cell voltage limit? Does charging automatically stop before cell voltage go to high and cells get damaged now that my cells are not balanced?
I stopped charging at SOC 98% when OVMS gave me alert of V-deviation over 50mV , and then the highest cell was 4.211V (!?)
Answers::
The error-codes U01A2FA and P0DE6FB both was reset autamatically after 6 cells below 3,2V was individual charged to 3,3V and HV-battery remountet into car.
I have taken some pictures during the process. Planning to share those on Google disk and write down som tips into a document. So stay tuned ;-)
Hello Roald,
seems my last answer get lost. i also answered you by PN in the GE forum.
To trigger the measurement of the capacity process, it is a little bit special for ED3. You need to discharge below 20% SoC and let you car without charging for at least 30 min.
After you could plug in and the system will start a new capacity measurement cycle.. This could be on reason for the special values below.
Balancing will always be done if you plugged in and charge, otherwise the balancing could you not prevent for upper cell damage :-)
So the battery will stop charging or slow down if on cell reach the upper limit.
This sometimes cause the wrong idea of charger defect.
It also depend on the charger. Do you own a 3,6 KW or 22KW charger. If you use the 22KW, this cause some issues with the balancing if you often charge short and not let the balancing circuit work.
So better to run a full cycle from below of 20% SoC with limited charging current or better 3,6 KW charger kabel. This will allow the system to balance in a better way.
Reason for this is the very easy implementation within the SMART ED3. If one of the cells goes to high, in parallel a resistor will be switched on. Never the less the charging current of a 22KW charger push much faster energy into the battery. So the system switch of before all cells are full. This is also the reason the 22KW charger reconfigurate internally and reduce the current.
So slow charging will help to not let the cells drift too much from each other. Never the less if there is one cell with les capacity this will define the overall capacity as the car need normally to switch off in 3,2V threshold. (If not you let the ignition on allowing to pull the heater to empty the HV-Battery and after the DC/DC converter pull 200W to empty the HV battery below threshold;-) Lessons learned :-))
So for best battery health;
Drive to slighly below 20% SoC.
Park for min. half hour.
Start charging and at lowest current awailable. (My charging cable has 6A as minimum.)
Let charging cable stay connected to the mains also after 100% SoC.
Seems ok?
Yes,
but with this approach you also trigger the BMS internal calculation of the available Battery capacity. Sometime to charge slowly will help the BMS and CMS to do let their balancing work do. Do this 1-2 times after your event and you will get some feedback about your cell capacity.
I see now that OVMS 'bms status' reports 0.1V higher cell voltage than 'xse bsmdiag'
Whitch is correct ?
Hi Roald,
any update on your story..
We try to identify how fast the HV battery get empty. Also the number of left contactor operation would be interesting between your ovms read out approaches.
High all
Finaly got some spare time to make a document with pictures that describe how I did recover the HV-battery.
Here is link to the google doc: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1F7XOSEJQZX2qtZLliR7thsWDvq9FPbdtNUiz4YzOvp0/edit?usp=sharing
I hope you understand my 'Norwegianenglish' ;-)
br
kaNor
Yes we understand you Nowegianenglish very well. :-)
When i use my mobile the German auto correction introduce time by time really crazy wordings :-)
I will take you link an forward it into the German forum as a best practice to rescue your car.
Looking forward for the reports on the BMSDIAG on the improved status of your battery. Some slow charging approaches giving the balancing circuit the change to work will hopefully help.
BR
Jochen
P.S: Please take my details in the german forum in the PNs you not read till now :-)
Hi,
Please ignore the status degraded at the moment, we don't know what it actually means.
The battery looks pretty good.
To get a better measurement factor, drive under 20% soc. Then show under xse rptdata OVC State time how long you should wait before you start charge the battery to 100%.
A good measurement estimate factor is 0.8 and higher.